New England Clam Chowder Soup

Ingredients

For the recipe

• 4 cans chopped clams in juice, about 184 g (6.5 oz) each; reserve both the drained clams and all the liquid
• Bottled clam juice or low-sodium seafood stock, as needed to bring the reserved canned clam liquid to 600 ml (2 1/2 US cups) total; have up to 600 ml available
• 150 g (5 oz) streaky bacon, cut into 1 cm (1/2 inch) pieces
• 15 g (1 tablespoon) unsalted butter
• 1 large onion, about 200 g (7 oz), finely diced
• 2 celery stalks, about 100 g (3 1/2 oz), finely diced
• 2 garlic cloves, finely minced
• 35 g (about 1/4 US cup plus 1 teaspoon) plain/all-purpose flour
• 600 g (1 lb 5 oz) Yukon Gold or other waxy potatoes, peeled and cut into 1.5 cm (about 1/2 inch) cubes
• 1 bay leaf
• 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
• 350 ml (about 1 1/2 US cups) whole milk
• 200 ml (about 3/4 US cup plus 1 tablespoon) double/heavy cream
• 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper, plus more to taste
• Up to 1/4 teaspoon fine salt, only if needed after tasting
• 6 g (2 tablespoons) finely sliced fresh chives

Instructions

1. Open the cans of clams and drain them through a fine-mesh sieve set over a bowl, keeping both the meat and the liquid. Check the clams for any shell fragments. Cover and refrigerate the drained clams until needed.
2. If the reserved clam liquid looks sandy, pass it through a fine sieve lined with a coffee filter or damp kitchen paper. Measure it into a jug and add enough bottled clam juice or seafood stock to make exactly 600 ml total. The amount of juice in different brands of canned clams varies.
3. Place the diced bacon in a large, heavy saucepan over medium heat. Cook for 7-9 minutes, stirring occasionally, until golden and the fat has rendered. Lift the bacon onto a plate using a slotted spoon.
4. Leave about 2 tablespoons of bacon fat in the saucepan and carefully pour off any excess into a heatproof container. Add the butter, onion and celery. Cook over medium-low heat for 6-8 minutes, stirring regularly, until the vegetables soften without browning.
5. Add the garlic and cook for 30 seconds. Sprinkle in the flour and stir continuously for 1 minute so it evenly coats the vegetables and absorbs the fat.
6. Slowly pour in the measured 600 ml clam liquid mixture, stirring continuously to prevent lumps. Scrape the bottom of the saucepan to loosen any bacon and vegetable cooking juices.
7. Add the potatoes, bay leaf, dried thyme and 1/4 teaspoon black pepper. Bring just to a boil, then reduce the heat to a gentle simmer. Partly cover and cook for 12-15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until a knife slides easily into a potato cube. The potatoes must be tender before the dairy is added.
8. For a slightly fuller texture, gently crush a few potato cubes against the side of the pan with the back of a spoon and stir them into the broth. Keep most of the potatoes intact; this is a chunky chowder.
9. Reduce the heat to low and gradually stir in the milk and cream. Heat gently for 3-5 minutes until the soup is steaming and hot throughout. Stir from the bottom so it does not catch, and avoid a vigorous boil.
10. Stir in the drained clams and half the cooked bacon. Heat over low heat for 2-3 minutes, just until the clams are hot throughout. Canned clams are already cooked, so lengthy simmering will make them tough.
11. Remove and discard the bay leaf. Taste before adding salt: canned clam juice and bacon may provide enough. Add a little of the optional salt and extra pepper only if needed. The chowder should coat a spoon but still pour easily.
12. Ladle into 6 warm bowls and sprinkle with the remaining bacon and the chives. Serve promptly while hot.