Som Tam (Thai Green Papaya Salad)

Ingredients

For the recipe

• 500 g unripe green papaya, weighed after peeling and removing seeds; start with approximately 750-900 g whole fruit
• 80 g fresh, tender yardlong beans, trimmed and cut into 3 cm pieces
• 180 g cherry tomatoes, halved
• 2 medium garlic cloves (6 g), peeled
• 2 Thai bird's-eye chilies (approximately 5 g), stems removed; use one for less heat
• 15 g small cooked, dried shrimp labeled ready-to-eat, weighed before soaking
• 40 g unsalted dry-roasted peanuts, divided
• 4 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice (60 ml; approximately 61 g)
• 3 tablespoons fish sauce (45 ml; approximately 54 g)
• 25 g palm sugar, finely shaved or grated
• 1 tablespoon warm drinking water (15 ml), for dissolving the sugar
• Cold drinking water and ice for briefly crisping the papaya, plus warm water for soaking the ready-to-eat dried shrimp; discarded

Instructions

1. Choose a very firm green papaya with pale, crisp flesh rather than soft orange flesh. Wash the outside under running water, peel it, halve lengthwise and scrape out the seeds and soft seed-cavity membrane. Weigh 500 g of prepared flesh. Wash the beans, tomatoes, chilies and limes before cutting.
2. Shred the papaya into thin, matchstick-like strands with a julienne peeler or a mandoline fitted with a julienne attachment, using its hand guard. Avoid finely grating it into a wet pulp. Briefly immerse the strands in ice water for 5-10 minutes, then drain and pat very dry with a clean towel.
3. Check that the dried shrimp are already cooked and suitable to eat without further cooking. Rinse briefly, soak in warm drinking water for 5 minutes if hard, then drain and pat dry. Cut any large pieces in half. Products labeled as requiring cooking must be cooked according to their packet instructions before use.
4. Stir the finely shaved palm sugar with the measured tablespoon of warm water until dissolved. Add the lime juice and fish sauce and stir again. The dressing should taste concentrated at this stage because it will be distributed through all the vegetables.
5. Crush the roasted peanuts coarsely in a mortar, or place them in a bag and gently press with a rolling pin. Do not grind them into peanut butter. Set aside 20 g for the finished salad and keep the other 20 g for mixing.
6. For the best control, make two equal batches. Divide the papaya, beans, tomatoes, garlic, chilies, prepared shrimp, dressing and mixing peanuts into two portions. A medium mortar should not be filled to the rim; leave space to lift and turn the ingredients.
7. For the first batch, pound one portion of garlic and chili in a deep mortar until roughly broken down. Add one portion of the shrimp and beans and give a few controlled taps to bruise the beans without pulverizing them. Wear gloves when handling chilies and avoid touching your eyes.
8. Add one portion of the tomatoes and give them just a few gentle presses so they release a little juice but retain their shape. Pour in one portion of the dressing and stir along the bottom of the mortar.
9. Add one portion of the drained papaya and mixing peanuts. Use a long spoon to lift and turn the strands between light pestle taps for 30-60 seconds. Stop when the papaya is lightly bruised and evenly coated but still crunchy. Transfer to a serving bowl, including the dressing.
10. Repeat with the remaining batch, then gently combine both batches. Taste a few coated strands rather than tasting only the liquid; the intended result is a balance of sour, salty, sweet and chili heat. Divide between four plates, spoon the dressing over each portion and finish with the reserved 20 g peanuts. Serve immediately.